On Saturday night the American student, Ashley, arrived. However, after a long flight, she quickly took to bed. Sunday morning saw the arrival of the first of the Canadian students, Dale, who had been to Lanzhou three years prior so he arrived with a friend, Chung. We all went for a stroll around the campus before they experienced the first of their meals in Lanzhou. Predictably, the Guest House Restaurant staff were as generous as always but, also as always, it was a fantastic selection of foods. Another friend joined us after the meal, this one from Zimbabwe. She was an older woman named Karombe who proved to be loads of fun.

That evening we decided to buy some beers and we sat in a park on campus to drink them. There is plenty of beer available in Lanzhou, and certainly at a cheap price, but finding it chilled is another matter. This was the start of many new friendships.

This morning Andrew and I decided to venture into Lanzhou to find breakfast. Regrettably we left a little too late and the places we knew of were not serving breakfast. Instead, we found a Cake Shop where the most elaborately decorated cakes sell very cheaply. I decided to buy a savoury bread roll from there, which cost 3 Yuan. Andrew was a little more adventurous and chose to buy food from a street stall. He found something akin to naan bread which was also cooked in egg, making it also like an omelette. This meal was 2 Yuan, and described as "very yummy".

The afternoon we met Stephen to take a bus to visit the Yellow River. Stephen showed us where to catch the bus and how to read the schedule which shows the stops along the way, and buses travel past every 10 minutes. Usually. We waited for a good while and never saw the bus we were looking for. Instead, we took another bus to meet his wife, Echo, and then travelled together to a spot by the Yellow River. At this place we met with his friend, Roy, who is an English Teacher and had two of his students with him -- Alice and Lisa. We found a picnic table by the River and bought some beer which we slowly drank while passing the day. The Yellow River certainly lives up to its name, coloured by silt that is washed into the river, and with two days of rain it was silt-laden. By this particular spot was an Exercise Park containing many brightly coloured exercise machines. Echo explained that these parks had been developed in the lead-up to the Beijing Olympics, that there were many about and that they were use by all people, young and old.

After a good conversation, we left Roy and his students, and went for a walk across the footbridge spanning the Yellow River. This bridge was made in 1907 of iron and is open to foot traffic, bicycles and motor-bikes. Facing the bridge is the White Pagoda Mountain. The architecture on the mountain is fantastic and we will be shown around this area in the next week so will be able to take more photos then. Stephen and Echo then took us for some traditional Lanzhou fare which we found at a restaurant down an alley. This restaurant was over one hundred years old, as attested by a plaque above the door. Our meal included spicy noodles, a rice and date ball, and bowls of a sweet white soup containing wheat.

Next, we started walking up through the parks along the Yellow River. A little way along was an amateur performance of Chinese opera. A good-sized crowd gathered around to listen as several singers took turns with the microphone. Several enthusiastic dancers strutted their way around the circle in great performance.


Further along in another park, a man was setting up a sound system. We sat around for a few minutes, and the music began and a Tibetan dance or exercise session organically formed. There was a clear leader who danced around the area in a wide circle, and one-by-one people joined in. It seemed that everyone knew the dance moves, and it looked like a great deal of fun. We tried to join in, but as soon as we got the hang of the current set of movements, they changed again!


We carried along the Yellow River, coming to the motor-bridge. From here was a spectacular sight of the buildings along the river lit up in bright colours. Unfortunately our cameras could not do the scene justice -- it truly is a sight to be seen. A number of water wheels run along a section of the river as well, but these are only ornamental now. We came across several more public performances -- it is wonderful that firstly performers (amateur or not) are willing to perform in public, and secondly that so many take the opportunity to come along to watch and participate.

Finally we decided to head back home. It was planned to take the bus, however once again we waited and waited for a bus that never came. Taxis were not forthcoming either. Eventually an empty taxi was pulled over and we were dropped back at the university. We thanked Stephen and Echo profusely for their kindness -- it was once again a wonderful day.

This morning we needed to visit the International Health Centre were our medical records would be checked (and if any of this documentation was lacking we would have to sit through the tests again there). We were met by Lee at the Guest House and were introduced to two students from Korea who also had to do the same paperwork. We all were taken to catch a bus to the Centre. A trip costs 1 Yuan, which is fed into a machine as you climb onto the bus. For the sake of efficiency, they do not provide change so be sure to have the correct amount at hand! The bus then trundled us around the city. Halfway to our destination, the back passenger door of the bus unhinged itself and hung limply, swinging around. Nobody looked surprised. Even with Lee there, it was a challenge to find the Medical Centre, where it was eventually found hidden at the back of a collection of buildings. Upstairs were medical officials, who scanned through all of our medical documents looking for each of the required components (blood tests, an ECG, chest x-ray, and so on). This took a little while, as with the language barrier they sometimes found it difficult to find what they were looking for. Eventually my documentation met their approval, and I was sent away to fill in more paperwork. A fee of 60 Yuan was paid, and we now await their closer inspection which will be completed for Monday.

In the afternoon we met with Sophia, a Chinese friend of one of the earlier delegates -- a delightful young woman with excellent English-speaking skills. She took us for a walk around a few areas in Lanzhou, showing us around some of the clothing and electronic shops. Sophia wishes to be an English teacher but she is finding it difficult to find a full-time position. She currently teaches 20 hours per week, and feels that she is held back by the fact she performed her degree by study-study, a degree that is not valued as highly as a university degree, her age (she is in her late twenties), and that she is not married (apparently uncommon). Despite all these 'setbacks', she is indeed an excellent English-speaker and has the patience and understanding that would make her a good teacher. Aside from her study, she has improved her English by making many Western-friends and watching Western TV and movies. It was a pleasure spending an afternoon with her and both Andrew and I look forward to meeting with her again.

That evening we met with Stephen (Zhu Yuming) from the Foreign Affairs Office and "Mr Ding", Ding Hongxing, the Divisional Chief of the Foreign Affairs Office.
We had a conversation about the programme, how many more students were coming and when they were arriving. There is clearly a lot going on, as Stephen received phone call after phone call, and shared that more students would be joining the programme. They left soon after, and Andrew and I dined at the Guest House Restuarant with a meal that had been ordered by Yuan Mei. When the first two dishes came out we were happy, another two came out and we were astonished. Fortunately their last trip out was one final bowl of soup. It was all such delicious food so we put in our best efforts, but there are limits for all of us!

Afterwards we decided to visit an 'English Speaking Corner' session, advertised as being at 'the fountain' every Friday from 8pm. As the university term starts next week we were not expecting many students. Indeed, when we arrived at the fountain there were several groups of people, but did not seem to be much activity. But once we were seen, both Andrew and I were surrounded and the crowds of Chinese excitedly threw their English at us. It was astonishing just how much enthusiasm and interest there was for the subject but, as Andrew described later on, learning English is one way of climbing the social ladder in China.

There were all sorts of people there -- recently graduated high school students who were about to depart Lanzhou to attend different universities, students who were studying at Lanzhou, young professionals, grandparents, and young children. Especially wonderful was a young girl whose grandfather had taught her English from birth. She asked many well thought out questions about my views on where I was from, on American and British English, and on learning Chinese. Her grandfather then prompted her to recite a training passage she'd learnt. The passage she recited was a discussion on having attended a play which she spoke clearly and naturally about, the nature of the conversation was amusing: the play had not been enjoyable because a couple seated behind her had been talking heatedly and she was unable to hear; she glared at them, which was ignored; and then asked them to please be quiet, and so on! She was exceptionally sweet and I returned to my room to retreive a few small gifts for her and a friend.

It was great to meet so many people enthused to practice English, but it did leave me wanting to learning Chinese even more!

After the longest sleep in many days, nine hours, I awoke to find that Andrew (who had planned to sleep for much longer) had already ventured out into the campus and returned. We were meet at midday by a guide, Leehei, organised by Yuan Mei. Lee is a Masters student of Chinese Literature, who came to Lanzhou from West China for the experience. He has good English-speaking skills, but from time-to-time a word was encountered that neither Lee nor Andrew could translate for the other. Lee took us for our first meal at the Guest House Restaurant, helping us choose a selection of dishes and introducing us to 'Yellow River' beer. We were encouraged to eat (and drink!) heartily, but eventually we could take no more. We then sought to get a SIM card so that Andrew could use his cellphone, and along the way saw the first other European face in a while, an English teacher who has been living in Lanzhou for two-and-a-half years. She is a delightful Australian woman who welcomed us to join her for a meal sometime and promised to show us where to buy those items we may be missing ;)

We required passport-sized photos and so were taken to a small shop just outside the university. When it was explained to the shop owner what we required, we were taken up a tiny staircase to the rickety second floor where there was a set-up with lights, camera and backdrop. Our photos were taken, and minutes later (after manipulating the images on computer, printing, and cutting) we were issued eight photos for 20 Yuan -- 4NZD! We were then shown around the supermarket which is just across the road from the University, where I bought some iced tea. At the checkout, after you have paid you are issued a ticket which is presented to a guard at the exit who checks the items you hold before you are allowed past! We also ventured into the Electronics market, where crowded stalls offered all sorts of electronic equipment.
What I desired was a talking electronic dictionary, with inputs for English, Pin-yin (romanised Chinese), and Hanzi (Chinese characters). The stall-owner did not speak English, and I while the first dictionary proffered allowed English and Pinyin entry, explaining that I wanted Hanzi also was
difficult ;) Eventually I was shown another model, which allowed writing on-screen, however it's menu only came in Chinese. Third time lucky, the model performed every function that could be desired (including much more, such as MP4 player, and Li-ion battery), but was much more than the money I had available. The earlier models were also discussed, but seemed unreasonable and haggling didn't offer much joy. This time I left empty handed, but intend to return some day soon to see what I can find!

That evening we ventured for a look around a few blocks from the University. There were street sellers with many different wares: fruits, socks, mobile phone covers, books, and inevitably, DVDs. We found a Sichuan Restaurant on campus and sat down to a meal of Tomato and Egg and a Beef dish -- delicious! That brought the end of our first day in Lanzhou and left me hankering for more.

On Wednesday we flew from Hong Kong on a near-empty plane to Beijing, where no doubt it would become loaded with participants, officials and spectators of the Olympic Games as they returned home. The temperature was a more familiar 26 degrees Celcius and again we set down while we waited for our final leg which would take us to Lanzhou. The appearance of 'Free Public WiFi' promised on the wireless connections list was not to be, and to buy WiFi credit for one of the other wireless networks available required a Chinese mobile phone, a tool we had not acquired yet, and it was not obvious how to buy credit otherwise. Never-the-less, we hunkered down for a meal at 'My Mill', a Chinese Fast Food Joint. The meals were indeed fast, arriving minutes after ordering, and were delicious and filling as well. And at 58 yuan for a bowl of noodle soup with braised beef (and a bottle of chilled orange flavoured green tea for me), I was told this would be the most expensive meal for a while -- and that at roughly 13NZD for two!

The first sign of China's officious nature was evidenced in the rigorous security checking experienced for flying, of all places, to Lanzhou. First, boarding passes and identities were checked, before carry on luggage and our persons were themselves checked. Fortunately, neither of us had anything to trigger the metal detectors, however the checking of our carry-on rose some issues. In my luggage I had a 125ml bottle of BodyShop deoderant, which is not permitted -- the largest volume vessel allowed is 100mL, even if the vessel is not full. This was relinquished, fair enough. Next, I learnt I was only allowed to take one of the two bottles of anti-persipirant that I carried (the reasoning behind this was not clear to me, but as one was near empty I was happy to give that up). Next, a surprise for me was that I was only permitted to take one of the two bottles of Alanase (a medication for rhinitis)! I gently argued that this was a medication, which I then had to prove by using. At least I had clear sinuses for the flight!
Andrew struck similar issues, relinquishing several items intended as a gift being delivered for a friend. When the official realised Andrew and I were travelling together, I was given my second anti-perspirant back! I can't say I was jubilant, but appreciated the kind act!

Then it was waiting at the airport gate again. From here it could be seen that there is a definite haze hanging over Beijing, what some describe as a "mist", but I won't discuss that further here ;) The excitement to be in China continued, despite being aware that I could not communicate with most of the people surrounding me, but that challenge was not to take the shine off it all.

The flight to Lanzhou was interesting, on a flight of over 100 people, only one other was European! There was some surprise that Westerners were travelling to Lanzhou. Perhaps more surprising was the entertainment on the flight. The audio channels provided three options -- two for the video display (one English, one Chinese), and a music channel. The surprising nature of the music channel was that one earphone was spouting European Pop music (including Celine Dion, Sugababes and Rihanna), and the other was Chinese Popera (a pop-py version of opera)! An unusal and un-explained combination... The flight was pleasant, as each had been. It also provided the first signs that we were headed somewhere less Western, as the tea served this time was jasmine.

When we arrived at Lanzhou airport we were met by Stephen, from the Gansu Foreign Affairs Office, and Yuan Mei (Mary), from Lanzhou University. During the one-hour drive from the airport to Lanzhou we learned that we were the first of twenty-four ambassadors to be participating in the exchange this year. We caught our first sights of the Yellow River, which following a burst of rain was indeed quite yellow with the (clay) washed from the land, and saw tree plantings along much of the hills in effort to change the climate (and protect the hills from being washed away!). We were immediately taken to a restuarant to sample the beef noodles that Lanzhou is famous for. They were indeed delicious, and served with a selection of side dishes including what appear to have been pickled cabbage, a carrot and vinegar combination, slices of ear from some unknown source, and delicious cuts of beef.
Our final destination for the night was the Guest House, where we were shown our rooms. They are quite comfortable, fitted with a (firm!) bed, desk, TV, air conditioning unit, and ensuite bathroom. Sleep came easily that night.

After thirteen hours, we arrived at Hong Kong International Airport to 30 degrees Celcius of humid heat. We found our way to the departures lounge for a mammoth eleven hour wait for our connecting flight. Some reasonably comfortable orange sofas and chairs became our home. We were not the only ones to be waiting the night out in the airport -- at least ten others made themselves comfortable, shifting furniture as wanted to produce these orange 'cocoons' that clustered around the lounge. A god-send was the free wireless internet available in Hong Kong International Airport (and the cleaner's powerpoint we discovered, keeping our laptops live). This was a mostly sleepless night for me, but Andrew blissfully slept through much of the night.

How did I spend the flight? See here :)

It is amazing that the next day is about to come to be -- the day that I depart life, friends and family in Christchurch, New Zealand to be introduced to that in China. I have met many Chinese people through the years and the opportunity to get to learn their language, their culture and their land is amazing. I do not know any Mandarin, I have few contacts in China, and do not know what to expect. What I do know is that this will be a fantastic journey and that I want to make the most of it.

Please join me as I write from day-to-day in this journal where I will share my experiences, photos of the sights and -- an occasional delight -- video from my life in China. Xie xie.