Today I met with John, who I know through the English Speaking Corner, and we took a bus to the city center of Lanzhou. Here we met his best friend, Liu-kang, who he studied with before they went to separate schools. Together we went to Relics Market, which is housed in a traditional area in amongst the big city. There were all manner of items for sale here, from weapons such as swords and crossbows, brushes for calligraphy and watercolour, old memorabilia including stamps, badges, photos and newspapers, and much, much more. You could spend a good half-day or more browsing through everything! While we were there we saw a fascinating collection stones, some which had been found with image-likenesses in them, and those which had been enhanced with images. We were also able to see calligraphy master at work:



Next we went for a walk through the Waterwheel Gardens, where there is a display of some of the old waterwheels that helped irrigate Lanzhou. It is a very peaceful spot with lush green gardens with many places to sit and relax. There are also models of some of the old water pumping technologies (human driven!) which you can work yourself (if you still have the energy!).

After the Waterwheel Gardens we met with a female friend of Liu-kang's, Venna, who took us to a popular restaurant for a feast of bāozi (steamed stuffed buns, 包子). We dipped these in saucers of vinegar and chilli and they were delicious! We walked around the Yellow River for a while before parting ways. I am so pleased to have met all these lovely people!

Today I was invited by a friend to attend a Chinese Wedding ceremony. Unfortunately we arrived after much of the ceremony had taken place but the venue, the Yellow River Romantic Gardens (黄河风情园), was beautiful.

When we arrived, we were met by the families of the bride and groom, and then the bridge and groom themselves! It is a tradition of Chinese weddings that it is the bride and groom that visit each of their guests, rather than the other way around.

There were twenty to thirty tables, each decorated with rich red (an auspicious colour for the Chinese, providing good luck). A course of cold dishes were then brought out. This was followed by a course of warm dishes. The bride and groom appeared again by us, and the bride was in a new dress, this one pink. The changing of The groom was apparently following another tradition, where they perform a toast of baijiu with every guest! Guests passed red envelopes containing money gifts to the bride and groom, red again providing luck.

Following the wedding banquet, I went for a walk with my friends around the Water Wheel Garden. We sat down and enjoyed a glass of tea each and talked while the sun went down, a pleasant end to a day with such pleasant company!

This morning we travelled with three bus-loads of other international students to together visit the Lanzhou Museum. The first hall that we were introduced to was a history of the Silk Road, the extensive trading route that runs through Gansu, connecting North, South, East and West. This road has been used for thousands of years, and as such has a long and interesting history. The exhibition included many ancient artifacts: tools, art, pottery and items of trade.

There was also an extensive collection of Buddhist sculptures and artworks.





As well as these collections of historic relics, there are preserved natural resources also. In other halls there are a number of fossils including a 4 metre high replica skeleton of the Mammoth and exhibits on the panda, golden monkey and cranes (of the avian variety). Well worth a visit!

Even though today is Saturday, we have class because of the upcoming National Holiday Week. To console ourselves, a group of us headed to a pizza-restaurant we had heard about, Miro Pizza. We did not know what to expect, but arrived to find a very comfortable and tidy diner that would remind us of home. The pizzas on offer were perhaps not standard Western fare, though, many including chilli flakes, fish and squid rings. The most common request was the Supreme, which *was* the typical style Western pizza. When the pizza came out, every piece was devoured and I think the happiest reunion was with cheese, which rarely appears in the Chinese diet.

Later that day we were invited to the home of a family that Ashley has been tutoring for. The apartment was in an inner-city building. Both the building and apartment were stunning, testament to the family's success. The apartment was lightly but by-all-means comfortably furnished, and the parents entertained us while we waited for their daughter (Ashley's student) to arrive. They both spoke very good English although, like many Chinese, the wife was too shy to speak much of it; and they were the most delightful hosts, we could honestly have spent the whole evening there in conversation! However, their plan was to take us out to a restaurant for a meal, so that was not to be. Their daughter arrived, and we were out.

They took us to a Muslim restaurant, Malaoliu(兰州马老六清真餐厅, or "MaLL" for short) that is well known for its lamb dishes. Indeed, one of the first dishes brought out was cooked lamb which we were now familiar with dipping in salt and pepper, and there are no complaints about that! Next were some light fluffy bread circles which we opened up and stuffed with chicken cooked in delicious spices. A fú wù yuán (waitress) came into the room with a black bag which she held open for our hosts. Next thing we know, the bag is flipping and jumping around -- there was a live fish in it! A little time later that was served up to us, steamed and garnished.

The conversation continued for hours, they are such wonderful people, I am pleased to have met them (and have our American friend, Ashley, to thank for that!) The wife and husband both gently jibe each other, they are so much fun! We took turns telling jokes, sharing tongue twisters (both English and Chinese). The laughter continued through the evening, until it grew time for us to depart.

We have met so many wonderful people in China, and I have a feeling over the coming months we will all meet many more. I hope we can return at least part of the kindness they have shown us.

This evening we were invited to attend a banquet at the Lanzhou Hotel celebrating the upcoming National Day, marking the anniversary of the formation of the People's Republic of China on October 1st 1949. The banquet was also used to honour a number of Foreign Experts who were bestowed awards for their contribution to the province of Gansu in the last year. There was a large turn out, our people in their best dress, and it was again a night of fantastic food and wonderful performances.

Food of the night included Crab Roe Soup, Beef stuffed with Facai (a black moss delicacy), french fries (!), and many other dishes.

The performances really stole the show though. Each of the performers was a "First Class Winner" or "Golden Prize Winner" of their respective art, and their talent blew us away. Especially entertaining was Dong Kang, a traditional opera actor in the art of "face changing" -- it really must be seen.

Today I was given a copy of the 'Gānsù Rìbào' (The Gansu Daily), the largest distributed newspaper in the Gansu Province and, lo-and-behold, there was a photo of me on the front page! This photo had been taken at the National Trade Fair at Pingliang, and shows me being presented a glass of biajiu.

I cannot yet read any of the caption or the surrounding newspaper columns, which creates an even greater yearning to learn the language.

This morning we awoke at a great deal of activity taking place in the field next to our dormitories. I looked out my window, and there were the Lanzhou Middle School studeents, marching around the track! There were a number of athletics activities throughout the day, from marching drills, running races, long-jump and more! It seems that all the Middle Schools of the region have their Sports Days around this time.



Class was cancelled this day as our teacher was sick, so Ashley and I found a quiet place on campus and studied. We found a peaceful spot by a small pond, shaded with trees and conveniently placed rocks for sitting.





Finally this day finished with more activity in the field, this time dancing! This was the Chinese "long sleeve" Dance (cháng xiù wŭ, 长袖舞) which was very enjoyable to watch!

Today Lanzhou University, Lanzhou Dà Xué, began the proud countdown to it's 100th year. It was marked with the unveiling of a countdown clock inside the main gates of the campus and a performance in the evening. There was a selection of songs performed, both traditional and current pop. Sadly, the heavens chose to open over the performance, but a taste of the experience can be seen below:



We are thankful for Lanzhou University being such kind hosts to us, and wholeheartedly congratulate them on the countdown to their centenary.

For lunch today, Andrew and I decided to travel a little further a-field than what had become the stock-standard for a good cheap lunch. We instead headed somewhere outside the campus further down the road in the opposite direction of our 'usual'. We found a number of food places along the road and chose a large and popular place which housed a number of food stalls. We opted for Beef Noodles, and sat down. (I was very pleased when one of the nearby diner noted that I could use chopsticks better than Andrew ;)

We (i.e. Andrew) got talking to a couple at the same table as us, and found that they were out the nearby School of Arts, he was a teacher and she was an artist completing her Masters at another campus. They invited us back to the school to see some of her works, an offer we readily accepted. There was a fantastic selection of Chinese-style watercolours depicting scenes, flowers and portraits. They then insisted that Andrew and I select a painting each which they would give to us. Andrew tried asking them to accept some money, but they wouldn't take it, astutely noting "It wouldn't be a gift then!". Both Andrew and I were exceedingly grateful for their generosity and will treasure those pieces.

Later that afternoon the group were taken to the Lanzhou Hills to learn about the treeplanting project to "green" Gansu. First we were taken for a tour through the newly opened Lanzhou Green Culture Exposition, housed in a brilliant building with educational displays over three floors. There four four halls, the first depicting the need to protect and enhance the environment in Gansu, the second showing the history of plantings (in the 1950s they cut ice from the Yellow River when it froze, carrying it up the hillside to water the soil!), then the technology in use and specimens of the plantings and wildlife. Finally was a hall depicting the future of Gansu, and it looks very green indeed!

Following these presentations we ourselves were able to get involved and planted a number of trees. The holes were dug already, so it was more a matter of having the plant sitting correctly, filling and compacting with soil, building a mound around the plant to hold water, and watering it! It was pleasing to see the level of understanding and importance held on protecting and enhancing the environment, and I look forward to seeing the state of the environment in twenty years!

Before I came to China I met with a Christchurch woman who has sponsored a boy in Gansu to be able to study at school. This boy is Li, and today I had the pleasure of meeting with him. Li is 22 years old and, through the kind support of his sponsor, is studying Computing.

First Andrew and I met Li for lunch and he showed us a great restaurant where we had lamb meat which we dipped in salt and pepper before eating, cow's knee which was served in a sweet sauce, and a sweet white soup. Following that, Li took me to his school and showed me the buildings. Li said that there were around one-thousand students studying at the school, though we couldn't get into the school building itself because it was a public holiday (Mid-Autumn Festival). I did get to see inside the Dormitory Building and we sat on the field and had a good chat.
The dormitory building is six storeys high, the first three floors for boys and the upper three floors for girls. Many of the students here are between fifteen and eighteen years old, and eight people share a room. Next, Li showed me his accommodation which is just a short walk from the school. This was a sparsely furnished room with a hard bed, a desk and drawers, and little else. He had recently purchased speakers for his MP3 player so we was able to reintroduce me to Backstreet Boys and Blue, and he showed me his English-language textbooks.

It was wonderful to meet Li, and very kind of his sponser to enable him to get an education. It was interesting to see a bit of student-culture in China, and the only suprise was the amount that the group of them smoked, but otherwise they were as gentle, generous and fun-loving as you could wish.

As we left Qingyang it was evident that while a lot of development is underway, a lot of maintenance is required also. Nevertheless, the people express the same warmth and friendliness seen before and there is certainly a bright future for this city. The culture is alive and well, the workers diligent and the agriculture florishing. Farewell Qingyang.


Longdong Ancient Carved Stone Art Museum is just outside of Qingyang and contains an astounding collection of artifacts chronicalising and memorialising the history of Buddhism.

The pieces include numerous carvings of Buddha -- statues and busts, coloured and unadorned, complete and partial relics. This collection was delightful and inspiring to examine.


Zhou is thought to be the founder of Agriculture in China and his remains are kept in a tomb on a Mount above Qingcheng. On the walk to the tomb there is a large drum and bronze bell whose rich reverberations can be heard around the city of Qingcheng.






Qingcheng Museum is a very new museum, opening just months before our visit. The exhibits were extremely well presented: easily accessed for viewing and most interesting. Sections in the museum include a history of Qingcheng, stone carvings and ancient artifacts, the development of Chinese Medicine (which supposedly originated in Qingching!)
and the tomb of a General. It was absolutely stunning to look around.


Qingcheng was a quite tidy city with a much smaller population than any city we'd visited so far, with only 300,000 people. It is encompassed by two rivers, otherwise appearing quite dry in comparison.


The rest of the day was spent in a bus, returning to Lanzhou. It was good to return 'home'!

Leaving Pingliang, we were taken to a village which had formed three community businesses and transformed the shabby dirt housing into concrete apartments with heating and running water. We had a talk with the Chair of the Business Committee who told us about the transformation of the village, its wealth and how it was being used. They had new dwellings, a school and medical centre, and were helping other villages achieve the same.

Next we were allowed to enter a typical farmer's house in the village, which was very tidily presented and lavishly decorated. It is evident the village is doing well. We also saw an amphitheatre and the school buildings.

This village can be commended for its excellent work, transforming its structures and the lives of its inhabitants, and by all accounts it seemed a place of great contentment.

Driving into Qinyang was another transformation. It is clearly a strong agricultural region with many tended fields and orchards. Many of the houses are brick, clay, or made by cutting into the dirt mounds, producing a home that is cool in summer yet warm in winter. Many houses have corn tied up to dry and haystacks outside.

That afternoon we attended the Opening of the Folk Custom and Culture Exhibition of Qinyang, and it was indeed a grand display. There were demonstrations of needlework, of paper-cut art pieces, silk embroidery, puppetry and musical instruments. We were lead through the displays, filling maybe eight halls over four floors, each room unveiling new delights. The final viewing was a display on the history of Qingyang, and Qingyang indeed has an exciting future!


Huanxian Folk Shadow Play Troupe


The Chinese string instrument 'gu zheng'

That afternoon we had an audience with the Mayor and other dignitaries, followed by another of the by-now famous Chinese banquets. During the banquet were a number more performances, including one by the Hotel Manager who expertly played a piece on the èrhú, a traditional Chinese stringed instrument! China and its wonderful people never cease to amaze me!

Later we were taken to the foot of Kongtong Mountain where we were taken in smaller groups in vans to the Visitors Centre. This took us up a steep, narrow and frequently winding road. We were driven at great speed, flinging is from side-to-side and the occasional negotiation with other vehicles. There was great relief when we reached the top!

From there, we went by foot. I find it hard to express the experience of being on Kongtong Mountain in words -- it is indeed a beautiful and fascinating place. Kongtong Mountain is the spiritual homeland of Taoism, with many shrines and temples, murals and carvings, dotted about. Each shrine and temple includes a plaque describing the meaning, purpose, or deity of the dwelling.

The building shown to the right is at Second Heaven Door,
near the Twelve Generals Temple which is a temple for the sacrifice to the twelve colour general figures to protect Taoist doctrines and Heaven city. There are numerous such temples, so much to see, and the only way to experience it is to be there!

That evening we went to an open air concert to celebrate the Mid-Autumn Festival. There were a variety of performances with a broad range of ethnic feels, and it finished with a fantastic selection of fireworks. A perfect end to such a wonderful day!



Bonus Footage:
Following the concert, our assistant from Guancheng Hotel serenaded us with a beautiful folk song. It seems everyone here is a wonderful singer, Enjoy!

The National Enterprises Trade Fair Trade Fair opened today, and we were invited to the opening ceremony being held in Renmin Square, Pingliang. Not only did we attend, but we were seated on stage along the fourth row, just behind many dignitaries! This gave a prime viewing spot for all of the activities. It began with speeches from dignitaries including the Mayoress of Pingliang and Vice-Governor of Gansu, before leading into a series of performances with a bang! It must be said that China knows how to put on a performance. I would not want to cheapen the amazing opening ceremony of the 2008 Olympics in Beijing, but that gives some indication of the activity and this certainly was spectacular.

It began with clouds of confetti, and then a team of perhaps 100 drummers came out. Drums are a large part of Chinese celebrations, and they certainly make a mark. The playing was spectacular and performance colourful. Waves of red and yellow flew through the air during the performance as they danced and waved flags.



Next was a performance about the four main economic activities of Pingliang: fruit (particularly their apples), cattle, coal and tourism. This was a dance combining people of many different costumes, including school-children who merrily danced in what I think were apple costumes and cow costumes, a slightly older group of girls in lilypad and lotus costumes, and more! It was a wonderfully choreographed performance and very enjoyable to watch.

Next was an amazing Martial Arts performance, including demonstrations of a wide selection of weapons. The intensity and skill of these performers as they leaped around and fought battles was astonishing.

All the performers came together for one last performance and you couldn't have been more proud for Pingliang.

When the last piece of confetti reached the ground we were whisked off to visit the Trade Fair itself. The purpose of this Trade Fair was to provide opportunities for small and medium businesses across the East and West of China to collaborate. We walked in and were quickly overwhelmed by people keen to show their wares. There is a great amount going on in Gansu, from the growers of the delicious apples Pingliang is famous for, producers of beverages from Iced Tea to Baijou, importers of superb cars; there is a great amount of opportunity for investment and buying.

Seeing Western faces, presenters at the fair were excited to engage with us, giving us samples of their products (much wine and baijou, I was pleased to have a slice of a delicious apple also!), taking photos of us engaging with them and their products and talking with us.

That afternoon we were privileged to have a brief audience with the Vice-Governor of Gansu and other dignitaries. A speech was given by the Vice Governor, welcoming us and informing us on the situation of Gansu. There is so much to Gansu and I cannot wait to learn more!

Our journey ended at an absolutely palatial hotel in Pingliang, the Guangcheng Hotel. It was clad in white marble, and on the long entrance staircase stood all the porters and assistants, all smartly dressed, all welcoming. Entering the lobby was breath taking, it was so large and through a row of pillars was a water fountain where a piano player gently serenaded with light songs. We were shown to our rooms which we housed in different buildings. These were beautifully furnished and immaculate. Porters brought our luggage to our floors, then we were whisked away for dinner.
This was a buffet providing a delectable assortment of hot and cold dishes, spicy and sweet. We returned to our rooms to be given gift bags, each containing a Pingliang collectors stampbook and a silver commemorative plate, amongst other goodies.

A group of us decided to check out the spa facilities. These were unisex as, another first for me, the facilities were au naturel. There was one main pool containing numerous sets of water jets targetting various areas of the body, and several small pools containing detoxifying minerals. There were also shower facilities and a massage room.

After spending an hour massaging our bodies with the various sprays of water we headed through to another area upstairs. We were towelled off and given a 'uniform': the tightest underwear imaginable, a large loose orange v-neck t-shirt and equally baggy white shorts (with decorative orange edging). We were then directed to go upstairs where we discovered a mixed-sex nightclub of the sit-down entertainment variety. Lots of seated tables dotted the floor, surrounding a slightly higher stage area. We arrived to a dashing young pop singer who belted out tunes we couldn't understand but it was thoroughly enjoyable. 'Clappers' were provided, plastic hands with hinged hands attached which clapped together when you swung them, and boy was the crowd in a good mood!

Next, a smartly dressed woman came out who performed the most awful and inane magic tricks, the kind we see how to do as kids, but perhaps more entertaining was the rhythm and earnestness she performed them with. The punch line of the first few tricks was the appearance of a white dove, which quickly lost appeal. All the while this act was excitedly narrated in Chinese, but that side was lost on us. Following that the MC came out, perhaps the Chinese version of Ryan Seacrest -- short, slender and energetic, and at least as camp. He tried to cajole people up for a game with large dice, but perhaps the inducement of winning drinks wasn't enough, but a few brave souls partook.

A Tibetan folk singer came out and regaled us with a couple of songs, waving in her shimmering attire. Then a wave of belly dancers took over the stage, swaying rhythmically. They danced and then withdrew to leave one dancer who continued the performance. She wriggled and swayed enchantingly, then half way through her performance she brought out a co-star: a snake. The performance was mesmerising, but you can't help but feel for the snake!

Then, a beautiful high-pitched voice came across the speakers, but it was not who we expected to walk on the stage, instead a man with the most amazing falsetto waltzed out. He broke in and out of falsetto for a song, before the MC returned for what must have been a witty dialogue for the Chinese. I get the unfortunate feeling we were the butt of at least a couple of the jokes, they better watch out I don't break out the translation books!

It was a thoroughly different and entertaining experience, however on our leaving, our Chinese-speaking friend had disappeared for a massage. We were not sure how to communicate with the front desk staff, and they seemed not sure how to deal with us either! Eventually (and it seems the wait is standard practice) we were presented with a bill which we promptly paid and departed.

While may not be evident in the astonishment expressed above, there does seem to be quite some mis-align between this world and that experienced by the less-fortunate and, while this may be no absolution, I keep up my donations to the Red Cross.


Tomorrow we start 'early', needing to be formally dressed for the day ahead -- attending the opening of a Trade Fair.